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Saturday 23 February 2013

Interlining



Interlining is a layer of fabric inserted between the face and the lining of a garment, drapery, or quilt. It is similar to batting, a thick layer of fiber designed to provide insulation, loft, and body to quilts, pillow toppers, and heavy winter jackets. Depending on the application, the materials in this layer can be woven, knitted, or created by fusing fibers together. Silk, wool, and artificial fibers with good insulating qualities are common choices for interlining.
Generally, interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible. Some are designed to be fused, while others are intended to be sewn to one or both layers of the textile. As an inner lining within textiles, it is used in a number of applications. Though the consumer never sees it, it is the difference between a good winter coat and a great one, or lush full drapes and listless hanging fabrics.
In many cases, interlining serves as an additional layer of insulation. For example, drapes are often interlined with flannel or a similarly thick material to keep rooms warmer in winter and cooler in summer, while many winter coats and pants use a thick layer to protect the wearer from the elements. Some of these garments also feature removable interlinings, so that they can be worn in warmer weather as well. Interlining can also be used to protect fabrics, especially those used in drapes and consequently often exposed to direct light. Delicate fabrics like silk and velvet can suffer from sun damage if hung with a liner alone, and most drapers recommend the use of an interlining for the life of the fabric. In addition to protecting the fabric, it also gives drapes a better form and fuller body. In quilting, the layer can offer an extra bit of fluffiness, along with warmth in the winter.
Garments with interlining tend to be stronger, because of the added layer of fabric support. In addition, they drape better, while keeping the wearer's temperature relatively stable. Interlining generally bespeaks a higher level of quality in a garment, because of the additional manufacturing time involved.

SPI Recommendations for Woven & Knits



A list of garments and the typical number of Stitches per Inch recommended for each of them is given below:

WOVEN GARMENTS

Garments
SPI
Comments
Garments
SPI
Comments
Denim Jeans,
Jackets, Skirts
7 – 8
Fewer stitches per inch
Generally will give a more contrast stitch appearance.
Children’s wear
8 - 10
Usually 8 to 10 SPI is
adequate to provide
adequate seam strength
and at the same time allow for quicker cycle
Times.
Twill Pants or
Shorts
8 – 10
More stitches per inch
Will help minimize seam grinning.
Dresses, Skirts
10-12
Due to many of the
operations being
lockstitch, usually 10 –
12 SPI is required to
provide adequate seam
Strength.
Trousers,
Dress Pants,
Slacks
10-12
On some operations like serge panels, it may be desirable to use a longer stitch length.
Blind-stitch
Operations on
Slacks, Dresses
Skirts, etc.
3-5
A long stitch length is
desirable to minimize
the dimple or appearance of the needle penetration on
The outside of the garment.
Dress Shirt or
Blouse
14-20
Using more SPI allows
the use of smaller
diameter threads that will minimize seam
Puckering.
Button-sew
(4 hole button)
16
Button-sew machines are cycle machines with a predetermined number of stitches per cycle.
Casual Shirts,
Blouses, Tops
10-14
Using more SPI will give more of a tailored stitch
Appearance and better seam coverage when surging.
Buttonhole
(1/2” purl or
whip stitch)
85-90
Generally sewn
vertically – approx. 85-
90 stitches with a
lockstitch buttonhole
Machine.


When setting standards for stitches per inch, you should always keep in mind that more stitches per inch used in a seam requires longer sewing cycles to complete the seam. Longer sewing cycles translates in to higher labor costs and lower production levels. Sewing machine sewing at 5,000 SPM (stitches per minute) at 8 SPI will sew 17.4 yards of seam per minute. Sewing machine sewing at 5,000 SPM at 14 SPI will sew 9.9 yards of seam per minute.

More stitches per inch will also consume for thread per inch of seam. This will contribute to higher seam strength and more elastic seams, but will also increase the consumption of thread required to sew the garment.

Therefore, the recommendations listed above are common stitch levels that provide adequate seam strength but also take into consideration the factors just mentioned.

When sewing knit fabrics, you should always check for excessive “seam grinning” of the seam; and also check for “stitch cracking”. “Seam grinning” occurs when thread stitch balance is too loose allowing the seam to open up too much when stress is applied to it. “Stitch cracking” is checked by applying pressure on the seam in the stitching direction. If the thread tensions are too tight or if you are not using enough stitches per inch, the threads will rupture as stress is applied on the seam. Therefore, the following recommendations have been made for the number of stitches per inch to be used on the following garments.

KNIT GARMENTS

Garments
SPI
Comments
Garments
SPI
Comments
Jersey T-shirts, Tops, Polos
10-12
Using more SPI increases the chance of needle cutting.
Swimwear
12 - 16
The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch
cracking.
Underwear
12-14
The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch cracking.
Dresses, Skirts
10 - 12
The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch
cracking.
In fantwear
10-12
The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch cracking.
Intimates
12 -16
The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch
cracking.
Fleece
10-12
More stitches per inch are required to provide the proper seam coverage on fleece.
Stretch Knits
(Lycra®,
Spandex®, etc.)
14-18
More stitches per inch are required to provide the proper seam coverage on fleece.
Sweaters (Med. To Heavy.)
8-10
The more elastic the
seam, the more SPI that
should be used to
minimize stitch cracking.
Hosiery, Socks
35-50
Usually sewn with very
fine thread. More spi
are required to minimize
seam grinning and
seam elasticity.
.