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The word comes from the French appliquer, which means “to apply.” To create appliqué, artists start with a base, which may consist of a solid piece of fabric or many pieces sewn together, as in the case of a quilt. Shapes are cut from other textiles and sewn or glued onto the base; it is also possible to make appliqué with ribbons, cords, sequins, beads, and other materials. Depending on whether the appliquéd design is ornamental or functional, the applied material may be firmly attached or more loosely glued or sewn.
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Embroidery may also be used in appliqué, sometimes to attach the pieces being mounted and sometimes as a supplement to the design, to create more texture and a more distinctive pattern. Many Latin American appliquéd artworks are also embroidered, for example, and they may also include multiple layers of appliqué for a more lush, textural design. Ornate handmade appliqué can be very expensive when it is sold, because of the immense amount of time involved.
In addition to traditionally appliquéd textiles, some crafters also make reverse appliqué. In this case, layers of fabric are sewn together and the top layers are cut away, so that the lower layers show through. This technique may be combined with regular appliqué to make it more dynamic, and it is very common in quilting. The borders may be embroidered for additional emphasis or tucked under and sewn in with matching thread for a more seamless look.
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